Fisher, Ptarmigan and Upper Ptarmigan Lakes 7.14-15.14

  A recent dual family tragedy had left me alone to tend to the kids, household and work while my wife was in Colorado aiding her parents. I was happy to say that many friends and family made themselves and their homes available to help watch my kids when I had to work. It is always nice to see people step up to help those in need. I managed to get the kids everywhere they needed to go on time and still make it to work. While the circumstances why this needed to be weren't great the end result was that I got some great time with my kids which I am as always very grateful.  I had to take the kids to the airport on Monday morning in order to get them on a plane so they could reunite with my wife. Both girls had never flown by themselves but , just like everything else they took it in stride. My oldest had a emotional time boarding the plane, crying about missing me already. While I don't usually like to see my kids express all their emotions for the world to see, in this instance it gave me some bittersweet feelings. I am very happy that my kids will indeed miss me as I will dearly miss them.   Since I had to wait until the plane actually took off before leaving I was waiting around. A man approached me to give me some emotional support. He had incorrectly assumed that the kids were flying off to see there mother for the summer. When I told him that they were meeting my wife due to family emergency he seemed overjoyed. He was quick to say sorry about the family tragedy but I knew what he was happy to see a family still as one unit. It was a trivial encounter to some extent but it did give me some warm feelings when I thought about how complete my life is.


    Since I don't have anyone but the dog to answer to on the home front I decided a overnighter would be fun. Steve and I had planned on going next week since my family was scheduled to be in Colorado then. I thought it might be a good idea to shake the kinks out and go before next week. My packing was a bit behind since I had left the tent out to air not knowing it was going to rain so I had to wait until I returned from the airport and the tent had some time to dry out.  By the time I picked up Steve in Lake Stevens it was nearly 2. The plan was to drive to the end of The Tonga Ridge Road to use the Eastern Trailhead to access the fisherman's trail to Fisher Lake. By the time we reached the trailhead it was already past 4. The trail climbs 1400' on good tread to connect with the fisherman's trail.  There are a couple of options here. Coming from the East the first trail mainly traverses before descending to the lake. This trail is flagged and a bit marshy to start. The trail itself isn't hard to follow and it is the way I prefer to get to Fisher Lake. You can also bypass this trail and continue a bit further and there is the more used trail that climbs up and over two bumps befroe dropping to the Fisher Lake. This trail is mostly unpleasant with a lot of running water and generally unfavorable travel.


    Once we reached the lake I decided it best to camp at Fisher Lake instead of the goal of the great campsite between Upper and Lower Ptarmigan Lakes. We quickly set up shop and I was happy that the bugs were relatively benign for me. Steve on the other hand looked like he had been attacked by a swarm. Even his back was devastated with welts despite the fact that he was wearing a shirt.  I made dinner and Steve retired to the tent to gain a reprieve from the bugs. I stayed out until after sundown enjoying the light breeze and emerging stars.

I went to sleep quite early and had a restful night of sleep. The dog ran off something in the middle of the night waking me once and the moon shining on me like a spotlight woke me up another time but other than that it was a peaceful night.  We had a lazy morning before heading to the outlet where the trail to Ptarmigan Lakes starts. The trail was mostly easy to follow and soon it spit us out on the rockslide on the Western shore.

I could see that Steve was struggling with the rockslide and the very warm sun so decided that any climbing just wasn't in the cards. Thankfully we made it through the blazing hot rocks to reach the north shore and the continuation of the trail to the Upper Lake. We made our way to the primo camp site and dropped packs. We both tried a bit of fishing but I only have hardheartedly tried since the fish I did see where so small. I instead found a nice shady spot to take a nap. I could see that getting to the ridge West above me would be easy enough and I could see the heather gully granting access to Shroud Mt's East ridge all looked doable. There was still quite a bit of snow guarding the access gully but this would probably be helpful. I was a bit sad that I wouldn't be able to muster an attempt but I felt like it was the right thing to do given the circumstances.

After giving up fishing we decided to head back to camp. The way out was much faster despite the fact that we had to climb a couple hundred feet of elevation to get back to camp. Upon returning to camp we packed up and started heading out. For the return I decided to stick to the main fisherman's trail instead of the secondary one we used for our approach. I thought I remember a signed junction heading to Jewel Lake on a previous visit but I couldn't find a distinct path although large portions of the trail where still snow covered.

After cresting a bump we descended a short way to reach a nice flat meadowy area.  I  thought I remember a spur trail that continues straight instead of following the main path. I could see signs in the meadow so we continued on this lesser path. I started growing concerned when this path started heading more to the lake instead of heading out as I had hoped. I didn't want to find myself back at the lake so I decided to backtrack and rejoin the main path. Upon seeing my GPS track I wish I would have continued a bit further since we would have connected with the secondary path we had used to get to the lake. Instead we stayed on the main path for an unpleasant trail back to the main trail. Steve had several cramping episodes on the way out adding some time to the descent but we both were happy to make back to the car to enjoy some semi cold beers.

Approx 12 miles 2400' of climb 24:30 Car to car

Bare Mt. 5335' 7.1.14

I had hoped for some companionship on this day but in the end I couldn't coordinate schedules to make that happen. I had kid patrol until 12:30 which didn't make me excited to try something more challenging. With the very warm temperatures I didn't want to stray too far off trail. I had planned on doing Bare Mt. with my friends so I figured I would still give a go solo. The North Fork Road  was in descent shape and much better on the way out as they are currently grading it. In fact the way out was as good as one could hope for. I always forget how long of a drive it is to the Bare Mt. Trailhead. Finally I made it to find one other rig parked. I was happy that it wasn't as hot as I feared and the bugs have still not made an appearance. 

I headed up the trail excited to find even cooler temperatures in the shade of the forest. While the water was high when I reached the crossing I was able to easily cross on twin logs. Be wary however one of the logs is past it's prime and I nearly snapped it going across.  Soon I broke out of the trees to find that there was much more than expected snow above 5000'. I had expected the slopes under Canoe Peak to be mostly melted out. It appeared that everything above Bear Lakes was still snow covered. I gave some thought to changing my plans and climbing Canoe instead. I had no way of letting my wife know my change of plans so I decided to stick with my original plan. Once reaching the first switchback there is a cairn marking the fisherman's trail to Bear Lakes. The initial portion looks to be in better shape than I remember. The trail thankfully passes a few springs to keep the dog hydrated. I tried to speed through the sunny portions and go slower in the few shady portions because the sun was blazing down on me. Finally I reached the saddle and dropped pack. I could see that Paradise Lakes below me were mostly still frozen. I passed a couple of young women on there way down, they were the only two people I saw on the whole trip. There were a few annoying patches of snow on the summit push but nothing that was too bothersome. I was greeted on the summit with some stiff wind which took much of the sting on the very warm sunshine. I snapped many pictures since Bare provides a very nice vantage point of the surrounding area. 

After a short rest I made my way back to my pack and started the descent to the car.  I was able to make good time and soon I found myself back at the car. The drive out was made more difficult because for many portions I was driving straight into the sun making it nearly impossible to see. I also wanted to give a hearty thank you to the moron who was heading in with an immense light bar on the top of his truck. The lights were so bright that even with my sun glasses on I couldn't see anything but the blinding light. This setup could not be even close to being legal. I thought the sun was bad but these lights were considerably worse. I thankfully didn't run into him since I really couldn't see.


Approx 9 miles 3200ft of climb 4 hours car to car

Esmeralda Basin 6.24.14

  After last week's enjoyable outing James was eager to head out with me again. Sadly Steve had some obligations and couldn't attend. James had an appointment so we weren't able to meet up in Issaquah until 11, but with the long days I knew that would give us plenty of time. I had hoped that the clouds would thin a bit in Teanaway giving a better chance for sun. While Teanaway proper seemed to be in the sun for the balance of the day we found considerable more cloud cover the further North we went.  We made great time to the Ingall's trail head. The North Fork of the Teanaway was flowing pretty strong.

    I had been up the Esmeralda Trail once before when I climbed Fortune Mountain. I remember taking many more pictures than usual. It was easy to see why as we made our way up the good trail. The views are constantly getting better the higher you go. Soon we game to a junction with the County Line Trail. I didn't look to closely to the sign and instead of heading on the County Line Trail to our first goal of Lake Ann I led us on the Esmeralda Trail. I realized my error in short order when I realized we were heading to far West. I decided to continue despite the fact that it was taking us away from our goal. We topped out on 6010' and were treated to some up front and personal views of Hawkins impressive Northern slopes. I was able to see the Fortune Creek Road far below us. We retraced our steps to regain the County Line Trail and headed up. Once reaching the upper basin the snow became mostly continuous. Instead of trying to follow the trail I instead headed us towards a low spot in the ridge. The going was quite fun weaving in and out of the trees. Once reaching the steeper portions the snow became more patchy. Without any issue we were able to reach the ridge. Looking to the North I didn't see any reasonable way down so I headed West to a lower portion of the ridge. I found some snow slopes that would get us to the basin below but the wind was howling on that side of the ridge. I could see our goal of Van Epps Peak in the distance, looking like a million miles away. We dropped our packs and added some layers to ward of the biting wind. 6578' lies just to the West so we decided to see if we could at least climb something. I was unsure about James scrambling abilities so I wasn't quite sure how he would do. Any fears I might have had were unfounded when I watched him scramble above me. James was halted by some blank slabs. I had him wait while I caught up to him and I teased a route to the top of the point. I was a bit downtrodden when I realized that there was another point just a bit further along the ridge. I really didn't give the traverse a look and I instead quickly made my way back down to our packs.

    After regrouping at our gear we headed down the basin to regain the trail and hopefully some more sun and less wind. Once regaining the trail we found a nice sunny spot to have lunch. I didn't think we could make it back to Snoqualmie Pass before the blasting closure so the plan was just to hang out. Neither of us seem to be good at relaxing so we instead headed out. We passed a couple of skiiers on the lower reaches. Evidently there still is enough snow to ski between the Middle Esmeralda Peak and the Main Peak. I was curious on this being a viable approach for High Esmeralda. I am still a bit unclear on where exactly they had skiied but it does warrant some further inspection. Soon we found ourselves back at the car. I was able to get us to the road closure a few minutes before I thought it was to close. Thankfully they had pushed the closure back to 8 with the longer days so we had plenty of time. Another really enjoyable day to be out.


Approx 9 miles 2400' of climb 4:41 car to car

5520' via Johnson/Medra, Teanaway Doughnut Hole 6.17.14

I had an interesting time trying to choose a trip for this week. I had invited a group of my co-workers many of which had to work the day of the hike making coordinating a trip that would work for everyone challenging. When I saw the less than stellar weather forecast I decided to stick with those who did not have to work and head East in an attempt to find better weather. I again banked on the "Teanaway Effect" to provide some much needed sunshine. I decided to make another try for 5520' which is a few miles South of Koppen Mt off of the North Fork Teanaway Road. I thought the mileage and elevation would be well suited to my companions. I had tried earlier in the Spring but didn't like the creek crossing so I instead headed up a neighboring ridge that didn't make me have to cross any swift water. I met James and Steve at the Issaquah Park and Ride. I got there a bit early and they had some traffic troubles so I sat and waited listening to some music. I thought to myself after some time, that I hoped I wouldn't run my battery down. Well of course when we were all ready to go the car didn't have enough juice to start. Since we were on a bit of an incline I compression started the car and we were on our way.   True to form as we crested Snoqualmie Pass the weather lightened. By the time we reached the North Fork Road it was sunny and warm with just enough breeze to keep the temps comfortable.

    Soon after parking across from the traIhead we were off. The initial portions meanders along the creek without gaining too much elevation. We passed a work crew just before the first creek crossing. They are rerouting the trail to alleviate the need to cross the creek so many times.  As we headed up valley the pitched increased and the flowers started to show. It seems like there was only about 200' of elevation with flowers in bloom. We spotted a Western Tanager which is one of the most striking birds I have seen. Bright yellow plumage with contrasting black and a very bright red head. It was the second sighting for me over the years so it was nice for my companions to catch a glimpse. Soon we crested the ridge and finally had some views of the Peak to the North of us. The clouds were doing their best to knock Mt Stuart off it's lofty perch. To our North we couldn't see Ingalls which was completely engulfed in cloud cover. In fact we were in the middle of a doughnut hole in the clouds. Never once did the sun go behind a cloud on this trip despite we were completely encircled in clouds for the entire day. The wind was a bit brisk so we didn't linger. We headed up the ridge to the junction with the Koppen Mt. Trail. Once reaching the junction we headed South to our day's objective. Their is  a nice camp site along the ridge with the distinct disadvantage of not having any running water. Soon our objective came into view. The footing was a bit loose in spots but without any trouble we found ourselves on the summit in short order.

    We all relaxed and refueled. I had hoped that some of the cloud cover would lift to provide some more views but the clouds had reached a status quo. We gave some debate to heading North on the ridge and summitting  Koppen and dropping to the end of the road leaving us a 4 mile walk back to the car. After some discussion we decided to head back the way we had come. We leapfrogged the work crew a couple of time. I was thankful that they had cut out the two major blowdowns that we had found on our ascent. We all were quite on the way out making it seem like it was taking much longer to return. Truthfully I was thankful I was happy that it seemed longer because it was just so nice to be out on this perfect weather day. It was very nice to have some good company to show off some of what our beautiful state has to offer. No matter how many times I have had the "Teanaway Effect " provide dramaticly improved weather over the surrounding areas, it never ceases to amaze me. I wonder if anyone out there can provide some insight on what allows this phenomenon to continue.


Approx 9 miles 2500' of climb 4;37 car to car