Green Mt. 2.26.07

I had planned this trip earlier this week and in retrospect I probably should have changed to another destination. With the heavy snows this week I knew I would be in for a grind. The plan was to park at the gate on the Middle Fork Road that is a few miles past the crossing of the Middle Fork. This road is often used to access South Bessemer Mt. I have been on this road many times but I had never turned down valley(left). The road is washed out and you must ford the creek. There are two more major washouts within a mile. Both are most impressive, I sure wouldn't have wanted to be anywhere near it when it occurred. The plan was to use Green Mt.'s East ridge to reach the summit. I left the CCC Road just after the last creek crossing and made my way up . The ridge is not very defined early but gains definition as you make your way up. The going was mostly open and you can circumnavigate most of the brush. There are many huge cedar stumps along the way. I can only guess that they were helicoptered out decades ago when they were cut down. Most of the stumps have notches chopped into them for the use of springboards. The snow started at around 2200ft and increased markedly as I climbed. At 3000ft I reached a old logging road that I just crossed. I was initially excited to see a nice snowcovered talus field just above the road. I was very limited on time and I figured this would expedite things greatly. The talus turned out to be more of a boulder field. I think this had mostly melted out prior to this weeks snow. The heavy snow made for a mine field of suckerholes. The pitch also increased aggravating the situation. I floundered my way another 200ft of climb before I decided that I had enough. The beagle had some trouble as well but as usual he found his way. I was expecting some inclement weather but I was treated to some calm dry weather. I snapped some pictures and than butt glissaded back to the old road. After reentering the forest Tanner was off. I am used to the Beagle's escapades but Tanner usually stays close. I had quite the quandary on what to do. I decided to continue the descent calling for the dog at every opportunity. After nearly making it back to the CCC road (45 minutes) I was rejoined by my wayward pet. The rest of the way back was uneventful. I think this route would be rather quick under different conditions. There were some work crews working on the MFR and it is in much better shape than just two weeks ago. I stopped at the new school and was able to see Green Mt.'s East ridge and was clearly able to see the boulder field where I stopped.




Approx 7 miles 2300ft of climb and 5:30 car to car

Pratt Mt 2.19.07

Since it was a holiday Monday I put out a couple of feelers for some companions for another day of climbing. At one point over the weekend I think I was up to around 7 others to join me. I had hoped for an attempt of West Granite Mt but with the higher avalanche conditions I opted for something a little safer. Because of the poor weather I ended up with two takers for an attempt of Pratt Mt. We were off before 0800 in the heavy rain. I was quite sure before too long it would be snowing quite heavily. From the onset I was very weary and some trouble keeping up with my partners. They were good enough to politlely stop before dropping me completely. When we reached the crossing of the creek that flows out of Ollalie Lake I took over the trailbreaking. I chose to stay on the East side of the Creek to alleviate an unpleasant crossing. Before too long we were at the frozen lake and switched to snowshoes. I led us steeply up West until we attained the ridge at around 4400ft. Once on the ridge the snow improved and the grade lessened. We were able to make it quite easily until 4750 where we were stymied by a short section of rockwork that was coated with a thick layer of ice covered in 4 inches of new snow. We debated on whether or not to continue. It most certainly required ice axes and since we only had two for the three of us we opted out. The descent was the high point of the day for me. I butt glissaded long portions while making sure I didn't plow into any trees. Soon we were back at the lake to enjoy some lunch. The whole day the the snow only intensified. I am sure there was some some substantial accumulations. The way out was wet and somewhat slippery but we all made it back remaining upright. We all had a good laugh when we passed two ladies on there way in one of which was carrying a purse.








Approx 8 miles 2900ft of climb 5:45 car to car

Rooster Mt (The Ark) 2.12.07

had hoped to hook up with someone to join me on this climb. It is not overly technical but I felt I would vastly improve my chances for success. Rooster Mt. is NW of Garfield Mt. above Quartz Creek. Although It ranks a lowly #74 on the Homecourt 100 it does involve over 4100ft of climb. I parked at the end of the Taylor River Road. I have so many fond memories of this area that I always enjoy the day that much more. I was walking just after 0900 giving me plenty of time to achieve the day's goal. There was some patchy snow from the onset but nothing too much. I turned onto the Quartz Creek Road. The road climbs much quicker than some approaches I use so the elevation ticked away quite quickly. I turned off the QCR at around 2350 onto a spur that switchbacks to the basin below Rooster Peak. There are some choices to make as to what road to take I just chose the steepest option each time. For the most part I was never quite certain I was on the the right road. When I reached the basin I felt more at ease with my position. I stayed on the road to just below 4000ft and was happy to find some signs of some previous climber's . The track looked to be a month old but it was reassuring to follow someone who was obviously going my way. My hope was to reach a notch in the ridge between Rooster and a rocky subsidiary hump due South of my objective. I didn't have much trouble attaining the ridge and when I headed North the ridge went quite easily. The ridge became quite narrow at around 4800ft. This portion was about 50 yards long and it was very difficult to tell which parts actually had solid land underneath the snow. I gave it quite a lot of debate before I decided not to temp fate and cross this portion of the ridge. I was little crestfallen to be less than 600ft from the summit and have nothing to reward my self with. I felt lucky the day's weather was cool and cloudy to start and turned to heavier snow showers only to give away to warm broken sun.




approx 10 miles 3600ft of climb 7 hrs car to car

Goldwater Peak 2.5.07

Goldwater Peak (aka Johnson Peak)#88 on the Homecourt 100 is nearly due North of Teanaway Butte high above Jungle Creek. I have made two attempts on this peak in the last month. Since I had done most of the trail breaking I was more hopeful for today's attempt. The weather was very springlike. Although it was cool in the valley there was a fairly strong inversion making the upper portions of the climb quite warm. I followed Jungle Creek Road until 3200ft where I left the road. I took a more direct line to reconnect with the 4wd road at 4200ft. I followed the trail to around 4600ft. I stayed on the subtle ridge to reach the summit ridge. Once I reached the summit ridge I then traversed West to reach the true summit area. I was quite concerned because of the warm weather and the cornices that adorned the summit ridge. I could easily circumvent them but I couldn't guarantee the safety of by four legged companions. I could just see the dog's helping the the cornices to release. I contemplated on whether or not to climb the summit block to reach the true summit. The summit block was a little airy but it was only another 20ft of elevation, I decided I didn't feel it prudent to continue. I had hoped to continue on to Malcolm Mt. but with the soft snow conditions and with Tanner still having foot issues I took a pass. I will finish the peak later in the year when I return to do Malcolm Mt. The drop to the Jungle Creek Road went very quickly and soon I was making my way back to the car on the endless road.








Approx 13miles 2700ft of climb 6:30 car to car